Pipeline

I really like the setting, somehow we haven’t had a story in Hawaii told from the perspective of a local boy or had a story set in Hawaii at all. There’s a lot of surfer terminology I don’t exactly understand, but it adds to the authenticity of the story. I can tell that the narrator really wants to win but also respects his friend’s skills as a surfer even when Riley pulls ahead of him at the competition. But he gets wiped out and injured at the last heat, that made me really disappointed. I thought that he would be a lot more upset but he was in shock thinking about it, and the story ends there. I wonder what he did after that, or if he even got on a board again after that.